Collaboration Knife Project Page 1

last updated
Hi There I'm Dan Gray and Host of this page
I hope you enjoy it and please visit KnivesBy.com

Here is what I have so far, please add or clarify if needed.

Bruce Bump:* Etching and technical direction

Burchtree Michael Burch:* design, blank profiling and write up

itrade Steve Sando:* design and blade finish prior to etching

Nick Wheeler:* Damascus,   presentation edge  
The billet is of a 1084/15N20 mix.   Heat treat spec's

ddavelarsen Dave Larsen:* blade grind and File work

Laredo7mm: Sean Couch * Mokume and Jade

John Andrews:* jade, shaping, cutting and drilling

Rlinger Roger linger:* HT, edge testing and handle scales   Heat treat spec's

Dan Gray: * bolsters and take down and handle fit

Jay Maines:* sheath

pendentive Dan Koster: * Certificate of Origin

Harry Knickerbocker:* Bola (from scrap pieces), tang tip, assist Michael with writing

E-Mail: all of us here
Part 1 - Design and Profile
by Michael Burch image created by Steve Sando

 
Part 2 -Mokume
by Sean Couch



 

 
Part 3 - Ivory
by Roger & Chuck

 
Part 4 - Damascus
by Nick Wheeler

The billet is of a 1084/15N20 mix



 

 
This is how that billet was made:

I start off with between 25 and 33 layers of alternating steels in a stack. They are 1/8" thick, 1" wide, and 6" long pieces of 1084 and 15N20.

I MIG weld them together in a stack on the ends and sides, and then weld a handle to the stack. This stack is placed into the forge, running at 23-2400 F.

When the stack gets near/into the low orange color range, you take it out and sprinkle anhydrous borax on it. When placed back in the forge, the borax flows over the stack and keeps oxygen away from the surfaces of each piece of steel. After soaking for awhile, I take it all out and very gently squish it under my hydraulic press.

After this, the entire stack is a solid piece of steel, in alternating layers. Almost like plywood.

Then it is drawn out in length. At that point, it must be completely ground clean of forging scale/flux with a 9" angle grinder, cut into short pieces (chop-saw), and restacked/MIG welded. This billet was 33 layers, drawn out and cut into five pieces.
When stacked back together, we get 165 layers. It's forge welded like in the first forge weld, then drawn out again. I drew it to 1" square, and then forged the bar round.

Then at a very high heat, you take the billet out and put one end in a vise. With a huge pipe wrench, you twist the billet. It takes several heats and twists to get it twisted tight and even.

After it's all twisted, I forge it out width wise with a special die, and then it's just a lot of forging to get the bar near the proper dimensions.

After a few normalizing cycles, the scale was ground off with that big angle grinder again.
Then it's cleaned up more with my belt grinder.
Then the normalizing in salt, and final surface grinding.
I etched it for about 10 minutes in a weak solution before sending it to Michael just to show the pattern.

Nick
Part 5 - Jade
by By Sean Couch cut by John, profiling by Roger
jade

 

 

 

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