pic76 Bead Blasting
The two frame scales are then bead blasted. Here, you can see the chamfers have been re-polished

pic77 Masking Before Anodizing
The stop pin and detent ball, installed in the lock side scale, are masked off before anodizing to avoid reaction with the electrolyte under current

pic78 Anodizing the Frame
The titanium parts are submerged into the electrolyte bath - a solution of trisodium phosphate and distilled water. The DC power supply has been set to 28 volts

pic79 Anodizing the Slots in the Pocket Clip
The slots in the pocket clip are anodized with a brush at a setting of 43 volts DC. Note how the polarity is now reversed

pic80 Sanding the Clip
The clip is then sanded, leaving the pale blue color in the slots. Since the next color will be applied at reduced voltage, the color in the slots will not be covered over

pic81 The Anodized Parts
Here are the anodized titanium parts, including both scales, pocket clip, and spacers.

pic82 Blade Layout
The main grind is laid out on the blade using an Ultra-Fine SharpieŽ marker

pic83 The Main Grind
After attaching the blade to a piece of steel angle, the main grind is started. The steel angle acts as a vibration damper and heat sink.

pic84 Grinding the Swedge
The platen is attached at an angle, and the swedge is ground on the top edge of the blade

pic85 Cutting the Blade Notch
The notch is cut using a chain saw file.

pic86 Main Grind Finish
Here, you get some idea of the finish with the blade fresh off the belt grinder

pic87 The Ground Blade
The blade is now ready for hand sanding

pic88 Sanding the Profile
The periphery is sanded first. A small wooden dowel wrapped with sandpaper gets into tight areas

pic89 Sanding the Flats
Sandpaper is wrapped around a rectangular steel bar for finishing the flats.

pic90 The Rubbed Finish
The finish is taken down to 3-0 emery.

pic91 Sanding the 2nd Side
Masking tape is applied to the first sanded side of the blade before flipping it over and finishing the second side.

Liner lock folder page 7
Anderson